Strings and cables

Replace the yoke cables: 1980s–90s Oneidas

The yoke cables hold the outboard limbs at the saddles. Changing them means taking all the weight off and sliding the limbs out of the riser. New yokes are also Oneida's fix for limbs that won't stay lined up.

  • Difficulty Advanced
  • Time About 1–2 hours (estimate)
  • For 13 Oneida models

From the tear-down and reassembly sections of Oneida's dealer manual. Oneida never wrote out how the yoke comes off the cam, so that step waits on our shop notes. The Tomcat III, T-III EXP and Lite Force came later.

All how-to guides

We're still double-checking this guide against how we do it in the shop. If anything doesn't match your bow, stop and text us or call 270-318-2020.

Before you start

  • All the weight comes off, the string comes off and both limbs slide out of the riser.
  • Know your cam before you order. On H-series, Screaming Eagle and 1990 I-Cams the yoke's crimped end hides behind the timing wheel; on later I-Cams and K-Cams it's exposed. On the Tomcat I, Phantom I and Strike Eagle (Medium and Long) the newer cam takes yokes with different end colors.
  • Count every turn as you back out the weight bolts.
  • Never draw the bow while the timing screw is loose or without both draw-length modules in place.
  • Never use a regular compound bow press on an Oneida. It can badly damage the riser.
  • Wear safety glasses and keep fingers clear of the cams, clevis and saddles.

Steps

  1. Loosen the timing screw, then back both weight bolts out, switching top and bottom every 2 turns, until all the weight is off. Write down your count.
  2. Take the string off.
  3. Lay the bow on a padded table, riser toward you and sight-window side down.
  4. Pull the retaining clips and clevis pins that hold the power cables at the hinges.
  5. Loosen each saddle screw just enough to lift the yoke cable out, keeping the saddle on the limb.
  6. Hold a limb near the hinge and swing it toward you until the half-moon rocker clears its pocket, then slide the limb out. Repeat at the other end.
  7. Remove the old yoke cables at the cams and fit the new ones. Oneida's manual doesn't cover this, so call us before you go further.
  8. Run each power cable through the middle of its yoke cable and lay the yokes between the pylons toward the riser ends.
  9. Turn each yoke so its screw heads face up. Flip any that face down.
  10. Check that the hinge screws are tight and lightly grease the rocker pockets in the riser.
  11. Feed the power limb through its yoke cable loop and tuck its end under the plastic washer on the weight bolt so the rocker drops into its pocket. The washer must end up on top of the limb.
  12. Lay the yoke cable in the saddle slot under the saddle screw head. Repeat at the other end.
  13. Wrap each power cable around its cam nose and pin its ring end into the clevis with the pin and clip.
  14. Put the string on and check that every cable rides in its own groove.
  15. Turn the weight bolts back in to your count, switching every 2 turns. Don't draw yet; the timing screw is still loose.
  16. Check that the yoke plate screws are tight.
  17. Line up the limbs: each outboard butt parallel with its power limb and the tips straight when you sight down the string. Oneida suggests aligning new yokes at mid weight. Then tighten the saddle screws.
  18. Finish: check timing cable tension, tiller the bow, tighten the timing screw, check brace height, then draw a few times and let down slowly.

Tips

  • Photograph the yoke, saddle and cam on both ends before you take anything apart.
  • While the limbs are out, it's an easy time to fit our aluminum rockers.