Installing parts

Replace the timing wheels: 1980s–90s Oneidas

Swap worn or broken timing wheels for our aluminum set. The wheels come off after the limbs, pylons and grip, then go back with the timing cable routed exactly as your model's timing cable guide shows.

  • Difficulty Advanced
  • Time An afternoon
  • For 13 Oneida models

Pick your model in the BOW MODEL option. The Phantom II, Tomcat EXP and T-III EXP aren't in that list, so call us. Oneida's routing covers only the Tomcat/Phantom and Aero-Force.

All how-to guides

We're still double-checking this guide against how we do it in the shop. If anything doesn't match your bow, stop and text us or call 270-318-2020.

Before you start

  • This is the same tear-down as a timing cable change; it's a good time to fit a new cable.
  • Keep track of the cams: 1990–92 cams are the same top and bottom, but 1993 K-Cams can't be swapped.
  • The slotted wheel is at the top of a right-hand bow before 1990 and at the bottom from 1990 on.
  • The pylons hold tiny needle bearings. Never take pylon screws out with weight on.
  • Never draw the bow with the timing screw loose or without both modules in place. Wear safety glasses.

Steps

  1. Tear down: timing screw loose, weight off (counting), string off, power cables unpinned, yokes out of the saddles, limbs slid out.
  2. Remove the axle clips and pylon screws and lift the pylons, slipping the timing cable off the pylon idlers first on the Strike Eagle and Aero-Force. Push any loose needle back with a toothpick.
  3. Free the timing cable from the grip channel (glued grip on the Tomcat II and Phantom II, two bolted halves on the Aero-Force and Strike Eagle).
  4. Remove the timing screw and hub from the slotted wheel and the screw from the other wheel, and lift both off.
  5. Ask us how the cable anchors to our wheels and whether the spool, hub and screws move over from the old wheels.
  6. Feel each idler groove for burrs, a cause of a bump in the draw.
  7. Ask us how our aluminum idlers come off and go on if one needs replacing.
  8. Line up each axle slot with the cam's module cavity if the cams came off (Fig. 13). On 1990–92 cams the retaining and module screw heads go on the sight-window side.
  9. Route the cable exactly as your model's guide shows ('Replace the timing cable: Tomcat and Phantom' or '…: Aero-Force and Strike Eagle').
  10. Ask us which routing to follow for the H-series, Screaming Eagle, Tomcat III, T-III EXP or Lite Force.
  11. Start the timing screw into the hub but leave it loose; fully tighten the other wheel's 10-24 button-head screw.
  12. Test: turning one wheel clockwise should turn the other counter-clockwise.
  13. Refit the pylons and clips, then set tension: spool clockwise until moderately snug, set screw about 1/4 turn past seating, never over-tightened.
  14. Reassemble the yokes (screw heads up), limbs, cables and string.
  15. Refit the grip last, easing the tension first and re-tensioning after. Keep glue off the cable; don't over-tighten a two-piece grip.
  16. Final check: about 1/8 in flex, hub flange clear of the slot ends, tiller, timing screw tight, brace height, alignment. Draw a few times and let down slowly.

Tips

  • Photograph both sides of each old wheel before removal.
  • Worn cams too? Our medium cam set (K-Cam style) can go on while it's apart.