Installing parts

Replace the saddles on your outboard limbs

The saddle is the small block on the butt of each outboard limb, just past the hinge. The yoke cable rides in it, so it helps keep the limbs straight. Take the weight off, fit G-String aluminum saddles and re-align the limbs.

  • Difficulty Moderate
  • Time About 1 hour (estimate)
  • For 10 Oneida models

The models we list our saddle set for. Others, ask us. The Stealth saddle is a different part with 3M VHB tape behind it, and the Discovery is a different design.

All how-to guides

We're still double-checking this guide against how we do it in the shop. If anything doesn't match your bow, stop and text us or call 270-318-2020.

Before you start

  • Wear safety glasses.
  • Never use a regular compound bow press on an Oneida. The Kestrel takes no press at all.
  • Count your weight-bolt turns.
  • Never draw the bow while the timing screw or hub is loose. Never dry-fire.
  • Check every cable for broken strands while the string is off; replace worn power cables as a pair.

Steps

  1. 1980s–90s bows: loosen the timing screw on the slotted wheel first.
  2. Black Eagle and newer: loosen the timing hub (Kestrel: the orange timing screw).
  3. Back the weight bolts off counter-clockwise, counting turns, until the string is slack: switching every 2 turns on 1980s–90s bows, evenly on Black Eagle-style bows.
  4. Kestrel, Phoenix and 2017+ Osprey: ask us before backing the bolts far out; Oneida only shows the Compression Jig.
  5. Take the string off and lay the bow on a padded table.
  6. 1980s–90s bows: remove the saddle screw, lift the yoke cable out and take the old saddle off.
  7. Black Eagle and newer: loosen the saddle screw and slide the saddle toward the weight bolt (Fig. 7).
  8. Black Eagle and newer: ask us whether a cable must be unhooked to free the saddle completely.
  9. Check the hinge screws are tight while the saddle is off, folding (Fig. 23) or rotating (Fig. 8) the limb to reach them.
  10. Fit the G-String saddle in the same position and start the screw. Ask us whether to reuse the old screw.
  11. 1980s–90s bows: lay the yoke cable back in the slot under the screw head.
  12. Black Eagle and newer: seat the cables the way they came out and slide the saddle back.
  13. Check the outboard butt sits parallel with the power limb (Fig. 22).
  14. Tighten the saddle screw; ask us how tight, since Oneida gives no torque.
  15. Repeat at the other end.
  16. Restring, check every cable is in its groove, and start adding weight back (every 2 turns on 1980s–90s bows, 1 on a Kestrel, evenly on Black Eagles).
  17. Black Eagle and newer: straighten the limbs while the weight is still light.
  18. Finish turning the bolts in to your count.
  19. Set tiller, then tighten the timing screw or hub BEFORE you draw.
  20. 1980s–90s bows: rap the saddle with a nylon mallet at full weight if the butt sticks out past the power limb.
  21. Draw a few times, letting down slowly, then sight down the string and listen for clicks.

Tips

  • Clicking on the draw is often a loose saddle screw. (Dealer Instructions p.38)
  • Stealth owners: the VHB tape behind the saddle must stay. Call before changing a Stealth saddle. (Stealth Eagle Instructions p.6)