Strings and cables

Replace the power cables: 1980s–90s Oneidas

Swap both power cables one at a time. An S hook joins the string to one power cable so the other goes slack, so no weight has to come off. This is the most common cable job on these bows.

  • Difficulty Moderate
  • Time About 45 minutes (estimate)
  • For 13 Oneida models

Oneida's dealer manual and early owner manual both describe this S-hook method. The Tomcat III, T-III EXP and Lite Force came later; call if your cam or clevis looks different.

All how-to guides

We're still double-checking this guide against how we do it in the shop. If anything doesn't match your bow, stop and text us or call 270-318-2020.

Before you start

  • Always replace the top and bottom power cables together.
  • Tell us your model, size, string length and the paint colors on your old cable ends when you order.
  • Make sure the timing screw is tight. Never draw the bow while it's loose.
  • Work on one power cable at a time: the one at the far end from the S hook. Never unhook both.
  • Wear safety glasses and gloves, and keep fingers clear of the cams and clevis. Broken strands can cut.
  • Never use a regular compound bow press on an Oneida. It can badly damage the riser.

Steps

  1. Lay the bow on a padded table with the string facing up.
  2. Check that the screw in the slotted timing wheel is tight.
  3. Hang the S hook on the string over the middle of the BOTTOM power cable, pinch the string and cable together and hook them to each other.
  4. Change the now-slack TOP power cable first. Leave the cable at the S-hook end alone.
  5. Pop the retaining ring off the top clevis pin, slide the pin out and lift the cable's ring end out of the clevis.
  6. Remove the small retaining screw at the cam and pull the cable's crimped (swaged) end out of its hole. On 1990–92 cams the screw head is on the sight-window side.
  7. Push the new cable's crimped end to the bottom of the cam hole, keeping the cable flat with its ring end toward the grip.
  8. Press your thumb on the cable where it leaves the cam while you tighten the screw, so the screw doesn't bite the cable.
  9. Wrap the cable around the nose of the cam, slide the ring end into the clevis, push the pin through and snap the retaining ring back on.
  10. Move the S hook to the new top cable so the bottom goes slack, then change the bottom cable the same way.
  11. Check that every cable rides in its own groove on the cams.
  12. Draw the bow a few times, letting it down slowly, to settle the crimped ends against the screws. Never let go without an arrow.
  13. Re-tiller: loosen the timing screw, adjust the weight bolts until string-to-cam-nose matches top and bottom, then tighten the timing screw firmly.
  14. Check timing cable tension (see 'Set the timing cable tension: 1980s–90s Oneidas').
  15. Put a drop of lube on the 2 in of each power cable that bends over the cam and wipe off the extra.
  16. Make sure nothing can block the outboard limbs before you shoot. Stopping a limb mid-shot can damage the timing system.

Tips

  • Photograph how the old cable wraps the cam before you take it off.
  • The swaged end is the crimped metal end in the cam; the ring end pins into the clevis (Oneida's older manual calls it the doughnut).