Installing parts

Replace a hinge: 1980s–90s Oneidas

Each outboard limb joins its power limb at a hinge held by four screws: two into a nut bar and two into the clevis where the power cable hooks on. Swapping a hinge means unhooking the cables at that limb.

  • Difficulty Advanced
  • Time About 1–2 hours (estimate)
  • For 13 Oneida models

We're still confirming which hinge set fits which model; text us a photo. Stealth and Discovery hinges are different.

All how-to guides

We're still double-checking this guide against how we do it in the shop. If anything doesn't match your bow, stop and text us or call 270-318-2020.

Before you start

  • Pick the right set: our cable-through hinge set is for hinges with the power cable through the hinge and the bolt threaded into it; our countersunk-bolt hinge set is for countersunk bolt heads. Unsure? Text us a photo.
  • Never use a regular compound bow press on an Oneida.
  • Count weight-bolt turns.
  • Unhook cables only with ALL the weight off, and never unhook both power cables with the bow at weight.
  • Keep fingers clear when folding or twisting a limb.
  • Wear safety glasses. Never dry-fire.

Steps

  1. Loosen the timing screw on the slotted wheel.
  2. Take all the weight off, switching bolts every 2 turns and counting.
  3. Take the string off and lay the bow sight-window side down, riser toward you.
  4. Pull the clevis pin clip and pin, and lift the power cable's ring end out of the clevis.
  5. Remove the saddle screw and lift the yoke cable out of the saddle.
  6. Fold the outboard limb over to expose the hinge screws (Fig. 23).
  7. Photograph the layout: two screws through the outboard limb and hinge into a nut bar, two through the power limb into the clevis (Fig. 21).
  8. Remove the screws and old hinge, and ask us which original pieces you reuse.
  9. Replace the pin and E-clips if your hinge has them.
  10. Fit the new hinge with the same four-screw layout, without final tightening.
  11. Line the outboard butt up parallel with the power limb (Fig. 22), then tighten every hinge screw.
  12. Fold the limb back, lay the yoke cable in the saddle slot and refit the saddle screw.
  13. Wrap the power cable around the cam nose, pin its ring end into the clevis and refit the clip.
  14. Repeat at the other end if you're doing both hinges.
  15. Restring, check every cable is in its groove, and turn the bolts back to your count, switching every 2 turns.
  16. Put a drop of oil on the hinge and wipe off the extra.
  17. Final check: about 1/8 in timing cable flex, tiller even, timing screw tight, brace height, alignment and saddle screws right. Draw a few times and let down slowly.

Tips

  • A light tap moving the outboard limb means the hinge screws need checking. (Dealer Instructions p.33)
  • Clicking can mean loose hinge or saddle screws; a slight bump, a loose hinge screw or clevis. (Dealer Instructions p.38, p.40)