Installing parts

Install medium K-Cam-style cams: 1980s–90s Oneidas

K-Cams are Oneida's 1992 cams with snap-in Veri-Eze modules. Our medium cam set (K-Cam style) replaces them. The cams ride on axles between the pylons, so swapping them is a full tear-down.

  • Difficulty Best done by a shop
  • Time An afternoon
  • For 10 Oneida models

We list our cam set for these models and the LFM. Oneida's catalog says its own K-Cam wasn't offered on the Strike Eagle, and older bows had nylon, aluminum or I-Cams, so ask what else changes.

All how-to guides

We're still double-checking this guide against how we do it in the shop. If anything doesn't match your bow, stop and text us or call 270-318-2020.

Before you start

  • Never draw the bow unless both cams have matching modules fully installed.
  • Never draw the bow with the timing screw loose.
  • Never take pylon screws out with weight on.
  • Unhook cables only with ALL the weight off.
  • Work on a clean, padded bench; the pylons hold tiny needles. Wear safety glasses.

Steps

  1. Tear down to the limbs: timing screw loose, weight and string off, power cables unhooked, yokes out of saddles, limbs slid out.
  2. Remove the axle clips and pylon screws and lift the pylons (idlers first on the Strike Eagle and Aero-Force), free the timing cable, remove the wheels and lift the cams off.
  3. Move the power cable: remove the old cam's retaining screw, push the swaged end to the bottom of the new cam's cavity and hold the cable down with your thumb while tightening.
  4. Move the yoke cable to the new cam the way it came off the old one.
  5. Line up the axle's relief slot with the module pocket (Fig. 13), or the module can break.
  6. Note top and bottom: on 1993 K-Cams the slotted-wheel-end cam is drilled for the timing screw and hub and can't be swapped.
  7. Ask us which of our cams goes top and bottom for your bow and hand.
  8. Fit the same-numbered module in both cams (see 'Change draw length: 1990s Oneidas').
  9. Slide each axle into its pylon bearing gently, power cables toward the middle and yokes away from you (Fig. 14). Aero-Force: three-hole pylons on the sight-window side, large E-clips.
  10. Refit the wheels, timing cable, pylons and clips, and set tension (see 'Replace the timing wheels: 1980s–90s Oneidas').
  11. Run the power cables through the yokes, yokes between the pylons, screw heads up.
  12. Reassemble the limbs, cables and string, add weight 2 turns per bolt at a time, and do the final check.
  13. Recheck the axle slot if let-off seems very low or a module breaks.

Tips

  • K-Cam modules give about a 3 in draw range per size. (Dealer Instructions p.23)