Strings and cables

Replace the timing cable: Tomcat and Phantom

The timing cable runs under the grip and links the two cams. Replacing it is a full tear-down: limbs, pylons, grip and timing wheels all come off. This is Oneida's routing for the Tomcat and Phantom riser.

  • Difficulty Advanced
  • Time An afternoon
  • For 5 Oneida models

From Oneida's 1993 dealer manual. The Tomcat EXP isn't named there, so confirm with us. We have no routing for the H-series, Screaming Eagle, Tomcat III, T-III EXP or Lite Force. The Aero-Force and Strike Eagle have their own guide.

All how-to guides

We're still double-checking this guide against how we do it in the shop. If anything doesn't match your bow, stop and text us or call 270-318-2020.

Before you start

  • Tell us your model. The Tomcat/Phantom cable is longer than the Aero-Force cable.
  • The pylons hold tiny needle bearings. Work over a towel; a toothpick puts a loose needle back.
  • Tomcat II and Phantom II grips are glued on. Have hot glue or silicone ready.
  • Count weight-bolt turns as you back them out.
  • Never draw the bow with the timing screw loose or without both draw-length modules in place.
  • Wear safety glasses.

Steps

  1. Take the weight off, take off the string and pull the limbs (see 'Replace the yoke cables: 1980s–90s Oneidas').
  2. Remove the four axle retaining clips and the screws from the two upward-facing pylons, then lift those pylons straight up, watching for loose needles.
  3. Free the timing cable from its channel under the grip, removing or prying up the glued grip on the Tomcat II and Phantom II.
  4. Remove the timing screw and tensioning hub from the slotted wheel and the screw from the other wheel, then lift both wheels off.
  5. Slide any removed cam axles back into their pylon bushings gently, cams turned so the power cables point to the middle and the yoke assembly away from you (Fig. 14).
  6. Attach the new cable to the wheels. Oneida only says the two runs leaving the button-head anchor screw on the slotted wheel must not cross.
  7. Hold the take-up wheel in your right hand, boss up and to the right, and the slotted wheel in your left. Lay the cable around both as one plain loop (Fig. 15).
  8. Flip the right-hand wheel boss-down, keeping the cable snug, so it crosses in the middle (Fig. 16). The wheels should now turn opposite ways.
  9. Slide the right wheel onto the right axle and the left wheel onto the left. On a left-hand riser the slotted wheel ends up on top.
  10. Route the right side: the run off the inside (grip side) of the wheel goes to the bottom idler, the outside run to the top idler (Fig. 17).
  11. Route the left side the same way and push both wheels snug against the cams.
  12. Start the timing screw into the hub on the slotted wheel but leave it loose. Fully tighten the other wheel with its 10-24 button-head screw (Fig. 18).
  13. Test: turning one wheel clockwise should turn the other counter-clockwise. If not, re-check the routing.
  14. Refit the pylons over the axles, screw them down and snap the four clips into the axle grooves.
  15. Set tension: loosen the spool set screw, turn the spool clockwise until the cable is moderately snug, hold it and gently tighten the set screw. Over-tightening can strip it or crack the housing.
  16. Reassemble the yokes (screw heads up), limbs, cables and string.
  17. Glue the grip back: ease the timing tension, clean off old glue, run a bead of hot glue or silicone along the riser, press the grip on and keep glue off the cable. Re-tension afterward.
  18. Final check with weight on: about 1/8 in cable flex between wheel and idler, hub flange clear of the slot ends, bow tillered, timing screw tight, brace height and alignment right. Draw a few times and let down slowly.

Tips

  • Photograph every stage of the tear-down.
  • Change worn power cables or yokes now while everything's apart.