Strings and cables

Replace the timing cable: Aero-Force and Strike Eagle

On the Aero-Force the timing cable runs over stacked idler wheels on two pylons and under a bolt-on grip. Replacing it is a full tear-down; this is Oneida's routing for this riser.

  • Difficulty Advanced
  • Time An afternoon
  • For 2 Oneida models

Oneida writes this routing for the Aero-Force and groups the Strike Eagle with it for pylon idlers and the bolt-on grip. Confirm with us before tearing down a Strike Eagle, especially a 1990–91 one.

All how-to guides

We're still double-checking this guide against how we do it in the shop. If anything doesn't match your bow, stop and text us or call 270-318-2020.

Before you start

  • Tell us your model. The Aero-Force cable is shorter than the Tomcat/Phantom one.
  • The pylons hold tiny needle bearings. Work over a towel with a toothpick handy.
  • The two-piece grip bolts on with one screw; no glue.
  • Count weight-bolt turns as you back them out.
  • Never draw the bow with the timing screw loose or without both modules in place.
  • Wear safety glasses.

Steps

  1. Take the weight off, take off the string and pull the limbs (see 'Replace the yoke cables: 1980s–90s Oneidas').
  2. Remove the four axle clips and the screws from the upper and lower pylons.
  3. Slip the timing cable off the idlers on the back of those pylons, then lift the pylons straight up, watching for loose needles.
  4. Remove the grip screw and the two grip halves to free the cable.
  5. Remove the timing screw and hub from the slotted wheel and the screw from the other wheel, then lift both wheels off.
  6. Attach the new cable to the wheels. Oneida only says the two runs leaving the button-head anchor screw must not cross.
  7. Sort the pylons: the two with stacked idlers go top right and bottom right on a right-hand bow (left side on a left-hand bow). Screw the two plain three-hole pylons to the sight-window side, then lay the riser sight-window side down.
  8. Slide the axles and cams into the pylon bearings gently and lock them with the large E-clips.
  9. Lay the cable around both wheels as a loop, then flip the take-up wheel so it crosses in the middle (Figs. 15–16).
  10. Put the wheels on the axles, slip the idler pylons on (top and bottom can't be swapped), fit the E-clips, screw them down and tuck the cable runs behind the pylons.
  11. Route the right side: the outside run goes on the idler against the pylon, the inside run on the idler stacked on top.
  12. Route the left side the same way and compare with Fig. 19.
  13. Test: turning the left wheel clockwise should turn the right one counter-clockwise.
  14. Start the timing screw into the hub but leave it loose. Fully tighten the other wheel with its 10-24 button-head screw.
  15. Set tension: loosen the spool set screw, turn the spool clockwise until moderately snug, hold it and gently tighten the set screw.
  16. Reassemble the yokes (screw heads up), limbs, cables and string.
  17. Refit the grip: ease the tension, set both halves and tighten the screw while tapping them to seat, without over-tightening. Re-tension afterward.
  18. Final check with weight on: about 1/8 in cable flex, hub flange clear of the slot ends, bow tillered, timing screw tight, brace height and alignment right. Draw a few times and let down slowly.

Tips

  • If the grip shifts or squeaks later, pack each half with a little glazing compound. (Dealer Instructions p.36)
  • Change worn power cables or yokes while everything's apart.