Strings and cables

Replace the power and yoke cables: Stealth Eagle

On the Stealth Eagle you can change a power cable one end at a time with just 5 turns off that weight bolt. Here's that method, plus Oneida's order for fitting a full set.

  • Difficulty Advanced
  • Time About 1 hour (estimate)
  • For 1 Oneida model

Stealth Eagle and Stealth Eagle 2.0.

All how-to guides

We're still double-checking this guide against how we do it in the shop. If anything doesn't match your bow, stop and text us or call 270-318-2020.

Before you start

  • Stealth weight bolts, limbs and the stainless hinge pin don't swap with other Oneidas. Never fit a black steel Oneida hinge pin.
  • Never remove the draw-length insert to get a shorter draw. At 27 in it sits down in its slot but must still be there.
  • Wear safety glasses. Never dry-fire.
  • Keep fingers clear. Twisting a limb can pinch fingers or pop the string off a nock.

Steps

  1. Tell the cables apart: the power cable is closest to the string, the yoke cable closest to the riser. Oneida's 2.0 notes list blue/green power and copper/black yoke cables.
  2. Check both sides of each saddle for cracks if a cable broke or the bow was dry-fired. Replace a cracked saddle.
  3. Power cable, one end at a time: back that end's weight bolt out 5 turns to slack the cable.
  4. Free the swaged ends from the cam first.
  5. Take the saddle screw all the way out and lift the old cable off.
  6. Fit the new cable in reverse: swaged ends into the cam, then along the limb, across the saddle and into its slot.
  7. Refit the saddle screw and turn that weight bolt back in the same 5 turns.
  8. Repeat at the other end.
  9. Full set: start with the weight bolts backed all the way out, as in Oneida's string change. Oneida's notes don't say how to get the old set off.
  10. Fit the yoke cables first, rolling the cams toward the string so each yoke passes outside the groove to the cam axle.
  11. Stand the bow on its weight bolts, put the power cables on, press down on both cams so the cables settle, then press every swage into its slot.
  12. Snug the screws holding the outboard limb to the saddle while the hinge is open. Leave the adhesive pad between saddle and limb in place; work a screwdriver between them to free a broken saddle.
  13. Bring the weight back: pull each power limb toward you while pushing its end cap onto it, then tighten the bolts a couple of turns at a time, switching ends. No lube between limb and rocker.
  14. Re-tiller by feel, comparing timing cable tension where it leaves each timing wheel (see 'Change draw weight and set tiller: Stealth Eagle').
  15. Straighten a limb that's out of line: loosen its saddle screws, twist it straight using the string as a guide and retighten.
  16. Check brace height against the Stealth page.

Tips

  • Give the stainless hinge pin a drop of light oil while the hinge is open.
  • If the bow was dry-fired, check the limb pockets too. (Stealth Eagle Instructions p.6)