Installing parts

Install aluminum yoke splitters

The yoke is the small plate with screws on each yoke cable between the pylon and the limb (Oneida Fig. 1). Our aluminum yoke splitters replace the original plates.

  • Difficulty Advanced
  • Time About 1–2 hours (estimate)
  • For 2 Oneida models

Listed for the Aero-Force and H-250. Other 1980s–90s bows have yoke plates too, so ask whether yours fits.

All how-to guides

We're still double-checking this guide against how we do it in the shop. If anything doesn't match your bow, stop and text us or call 270-318-2020.

Before you start

  • Never use a regular compound bow press on an Oneida.
  • Count weight-bolt turns.
  • Unhook cables only with ALL the weight off.
  • Never draw the bow with the timing screw loose.
  • Check the yoke and power cables for broken strands. Wear safety glasses.

Steps

  1. Loosen the timing screw, take all the weight off 2 turns per bolt at a time (counting) and take the string off.
  2. Unhook the power cables, slip the yokes out of the saddles and slide the limbs out (see 'Replace the rockers').
  3. Note the yoke orientation: with the bow sight-window side down, the screw heads face up.
  4. Remove the old yoke plate from the cable.
  5. Clamp the cable in the G-String splitter at the same spot, screw heads up.
  6. Tighten the yoke plate screws.
  7. Run the power cables through the yokes and pass the yokes between the pylons toward the riser ends.
  8. Refit the limbs, yokes in the saddles and power cables in the clevises.
  9. Restring, turn the bolts back to your count, set tiller and tighten the timing screw.
  10. Sight down the string and straighten any leaning tip (see 'Straighten a twisted or cocked outboard limb').
  11. Draw slowly and check the yoke doesn't touch the power limbs at full draw.
  12. Finish with Oneida's final check: timing flex, tiller, brace height, saddle screws, no loose screws or missing clips.

Tips

  • A tip that keeps leaning may need new yoke cables. (Dealer Instructions p.35)